Who is Tim Gutt?

Born in the Netherlands, Tim Gutt captures the more eccentric aspects of life in his fashion photography. Gutt's photography was featured in the 2010 December issue of Vogue in an editorial inspired by Star Signs. Each photograph brings one of the 12 zodiac signs to life in a supernatural yet elegant style. It's clear that Gutt has taken inspiration from surrealist artists such as Dali (See Scorpio) and Davis LaChapelle (See Pisces) as well as fashion photographers such as Tim Burton. Each image has a different setting/story but all have a vintage, theatrical feel to them. 

Star Signs

Photographer: Tim Gutt

Stylist: Kate Phelan

Model: Siri Tollerod

Set Designer: Shona Heath

The best of the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show

My Favourite event of the year is just 2 days away and my expectations for this year's Victoria's Secret Fashion Show are as high as ever. Lingerie is my favourite area of fashion, so the VS show is a pretty big deal in my eyes. It's more than just your standard catwalk display; the VS show is innovative in so many ways. There are so many different aspects to consider: the looks, the angels, the sets, the themes, the music acts and of course the fantasy bra.

Since the first show in 1995, the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show has only gotten bigger and better; the producers have clearly acknowledged that in the present day people want more than just a show, they're looking for an experience. I know I sounds like such a cliché. This year's show will be held in Paris with Lady Gaga, Bruno Mars and of course The Weekend making a reappearance on stage. 

The Victoria's Secret Fashion show, as do the majority of runway shows, features impossibly gorgeous models with unattainable figures. But these girls aren't your standard stick thin, unhealthy models, they are undeniably blessed with fantastic figures as a starting point, but the angels work so hard to maintain a healthy lifestyle as well. It may not be the ideal situation in terms of promoting body confidence but it's a step in the right direction. It also motivates me to peel myself off of the sofa and work so much harder in the gym, I honestly sped the weeks following the show pretending to be some kind of health queen. 

It's controversial, because the celeb obsessed world of today is over-the-moon to see Kendall Jenner and the Hadid sisters walking in this year's show but I'm personally not happy. The VS show is about strong, fit models not rich celebrities. Nevertheless I'm still really excited for this year's show and I've put together a collection of some of my favourite looks from the past few years!

Herb Ritts: Fred With Tires - A Visual Analysis

The focal point of Fred with Tires by Herb Ritts is the half-naked, young man standing in the centre of what appears to be a car garage or gas station. His oil-soaked overalls are rolled down to his waist, exposing his toned, muscular upper-body. His feet face away from the camera, whilst his torso is twisted to face the camera. Fred maintains direct eye-contact with the camera, a smouldering expression on his face. A ‘dog tag’ hangs from his neck and his grease-covered hair falls over his face, which has adopted a smouldering expression. The image is in black and white and the photograph is overall very dark. The car oil covering a large portion of the floor also covers the model’s arms and face. Surrounding the model are objects typically found in a car garage; a stack of road-worn tires sits in the right hand side of the frame, with Fred clutching two more. Car parts lay scattered across the garage floor; the setting is dirty and authentic, grime covers the walls and blocked out windows.

All sections of the frame are filled leaving the photograph looking busy, the setting consequently feels real and un-staged.  Although busy, the image is symmetrical and there is a very clear difference between the model and the background of the image; this divide helps to make sure ‘Fred’ is still appealing amidst the grunge. Placing an extraordinarily muscular model within a raw, social environment makes it clear that Ritts was not focusing on realism. The image was designed to be aspirational as opposed to relatable; with some consumers wanting to be the model and more wanting to be with him. The model’s stance, his torso twisted to face the camera with feet adjacent to the lines on the floor, highlights his physique. A lot of interest is created through the use of lines, strong lines can be seen in the tires, the model’s defined muscles and veins, the windows and hose pipes. The curved lines of the model and the tires contrast with the analytical straight lines that surround them. Colour is not a key aspect of the image, there is more concentration on pattern and light and dark contrasts. The photograph focuses largely on contrast; Fred, with his unobtainable physique contrasts with the raw, real car garage. The blocked out windows help to prevent any light from illuminating the background of the image; ensuring the light falls mainly on the model.

By holding a tire on either side, the model is almost mimicking a vehicle or machine and the symmetry of the image creates a sense of strength, balance and stability. The model’s stance also creates a sense of sexuality, this is re-enforced by the use of direct eye contact and the image immediately feels more personal and engaging. Herb Ritts has almost reversed the stereotypical gender roles in fashion photography as it’s usually female models that are sexualised, as suggested by Laura Mulvey’s The Male Gaze. It’s refreshing to see the beauty of a male advertised; this is becoming more common in the present day but would have been ground-breaking in 1984. The model looks as though he has been doing physical labour as his body is shining and marked with oil; this again provocative and plays up to a stereotypical idea of masculinity. Leaving the model’s torso exposed in such a practical, rough environment makes the image feel raw and if it weren’t for the model’s strong, muscular physique the image would feel vulnerable. The photograph has a very American feel to it; the model has an 80’s American boy-band look with tanned skin and highlighted floppy hair. Around Fred’s neck hangs an identification or ‘dog tag’ necklace typically worn by military personnel; this re-enforces the idea of American spirit.

I personally feel that this image would have had more impact when it was first published due to the stereotypes surrounding gender roles. In the present day this image is less shocking as we are now used to seeing male beauty advertised within the fashion industry. I do however appreciate the consideration that went into creating Fred With Tires, every aspect of the image has been thought through from the car parts scattered on the floor to the oil smudge on his nose.

References

Herb Ritts Foundation (2016a) Herb Ritts. Available at: http://www.herbritts.com/#/archive/photo/fred-with-tires-hollywood-1984/ (Accessed: 21 November 2016).

Herb Ritts Foundation (2016b) Herb Ritts. Available at: http://www.herbritts.com/# (Accessed: 21 November 2016).

Who's blood am I wearing?

As a part of a sustainability project at university, we watched an eye-opening documentary: 'The True Cost'. This film has completely changed my view of the way that we buy clothes and it's had a major impact on the way that I shop.

Simply put, the fashion industry is dying. I say this, because the way that we make and sell clothes is not sustainable and it needs to change. The fashion industry is the second highest polluting industry in the world - second only to the oil industry. Until watching this documentary, I was oblivious and ignorant in regards to the issues surrounding the fast fashion industry. I knew there were issues in regards to child labour and worker's rights but I had no idea of the scale of these problems and the other issues surrounding clothing production.

I'm not going to talk about too many of the issues covered in the film because I think its really important that as many people see 'The True Cost', in full, as possible. (It's on Netflix!) But the issue that shocked me more than anything made me feel physically sick; I was completely unaware of the issues surrounding pesticides. Most people are aware that pesticides are used in farming, but what we don't see are the consequences that come from applying these chemicals. In many cases, the pesticides are sprayed manually onto the crops; as a result of this, the workers spraying the pesticides are giving birth to children with extreme disabilities. The worst part is, that it's something that can be avoided. I by no means blame the workers for choosing to work with pesticides - they do what they have to to provide for their loved ones. I blame the companies who are ignoring their workers' needs and rights, I also blame the wealthy consumers who have a careless, greedy approach to buying. This consumer group includes me. (I'm not being hypocritical, I'm feeling so guilty right now!!)

I'm completely re-evaluating the way that I purchase clothes; It's amazing that one film can have such a big impact. It's terrifying, knowing how uneducated the majority of people are when it comes to the corruption of the fashion industry. We NEED to change, people are suffering and dying for our superficial desires.

I'm currently boycotting brands that retail clothes at ridiculously low prices. My reasoning behind this is that if the price is shockingly low, then how can the retailer possibly be making money without cutting corners in regards to the manufacturing of their products. You also need to consider the quality of the product; It's so difficult to find high quality garments that will last a long time without compromising on the price. The fashion industry today is so wasteful, we buy clothes so cheaply and dispose of them without batting an eyelid. We need to start making clever purchases; buying one jumper that is made from sustainable, good quality fabric, that will last for years instead of buying cheap, poorly made garments that barely make it through the month.

Looking now at my clothes rail, I can see how greedy and thoughtless my buying patterns have been. I had a cost and style oriented shopping style, I'm working to change this to a more selective and thoughtful way of shopping. I know I won't be able to completely stop buying from non-sustainable retailers, but making more guided, selective shopping choices is a step in the right direction.

If you get a chance, please watch 'The True Cost'. Trust me, it will change your view of fashion and shopping!